🐸 Frog Club and the Allure of Exclusivity
Inside NYC's hottest and most secretive new restaurant
If you walked past NYC’s buzziest new restaurant in the daytime you’d barely notice it was there. But come nighttime, Frog Club’s entrance shows a few signs of life, including faint green lights and a well-dressed doorman waiting for you to arrive.
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Last night I was lucky enough to dine at Frog Club, the very new endeavor from former Horses Chef Liz Johnson. Horses took the LA dining scene by storm before a major scandal last year. You can go read about that here, but it is not relevant to my review of her new restaurant.
Frog Club exists behind several layers of intrigue and mystique. The door is unassuming, tucked away on a quiet street in the West Village. When you arrive, the aforementioned doorman places two Frog Club branded stickers on your phone cameras, as there’s no photography allowed. The website does not have a link to the menu, and even the New York Times was prohibited from taking photos inside the restaurant.
My curiosity was piqued to say the least. There is an allure to experiencing something so veiled. I didn’t want the trip to be spoiled so I tried not to read many articles or watch any TikToks prior to dining. I am glad I did, as I was in for a pleasant surprise.
After concealing all of the iPhone cameras, we were escorted inside the small, cozy restaurant. The lighting was dim but not too dark. The most striking feature is the fever-dream like frog themed murals covering the walls. The maximalist murals are reminiscent of a cheesy art you’d find covering the walls of a speakeasy, but swapped out with fun frogs in huge suits, holding cigars, and Prohibition era dresses. It really adds a fun twist to the ambiance and I kept asking my date what her favorite frog was. Mine was (not pictured).
In addition to the frog murals, the restaurant also features chain-linked suspended plates right above the bar and plethora of other memorabilia on making the dining space feel like your grandparent’s eclectic art collection. I couldn’t stop looking around, devouring the ambiance as much as I was the cuisine. We sat at the bar and were served by a very friendly bartender.
I got their take on a Manhattan to start, and then it was time to dive into the menu. Johnson’s take on classic American-fare is not revolutionary by any means, but the subtleties that make the dishes her own work to make them feel like something you can only get at Frog Club.
We started with the lobster pierogi’s which had a nice sear on the outside, and were brightened by the addition of lobster. I find it counterintuitive to gorge at restaurants, especially when you’re not with a large group, we just got two mains.
The burger was well cooked and comes with a special Frog Club butter as the condiment. I was told what makes it so special but cannot reveal here. Its served on a thick English Muffin (not Thompson) which I’ve never seen before but was surprisingly sturdy compared to a normal bun. We also got the Montauk Fluke which was seared perfectly, and served upon a bed of angel hair pasta.
Beyond our dishes, the rest of the menu (not very large) features Oxtail, Filet Mignon, a dip with crudite, and several other American dishes with subtle twists.
For dessert, we took the bartender’s recommendation and got the Banana Chifon Cake. Honestly, best part of the meal. It was whipped to perfection and had a great graham crust.
What interested me most about Frog Club was what exactly lay behind the green door and the hype. The stickers over the phone is obviously a marketing ploy to get people curious. It self proclaims its the ‘New Yorkiest room in New York’ with guests, ambiance, and food that must be hidden from the public eye. I am not sure if that was the case, but it was nice to be at a hot, buzzy restaurant without seeing content creators filming their meal with the flash on all night. It felt cozy, inviting, and allowed you to have a fantastic dining experience in peace.
Frog Club is another example of an NYC restaurant serving elevated American fare with a healthy side of hype. However, its taken the route that makes it the exact opposite of what’s going on at a place like Jean’s on Lafayette. While the vibe their is over-the-top and honestly obnoxious, Frog Club is subtle, its fun, its sexy, and it really is something you should try and experience if they’ll let you in.
There in an innate allure to experience something mysterious, that most people cannot see. This is why member’s only clubs like Zero Bond and San Vincente Bunglalows have grown so popular. Its another room you’re aspiring to be in. This led me to think Frog Club’s fare would be a let down, a place with more vibes than delicious meals.
I am happy to report its got both, and its worth covering your phone cameras and stepping foot past the green door on Bedford if you’re lucky enough to do so. Catch me at Frog Club again in the very near future.
About the Writer
Jake Bell is a content marketing and creative strategist based in NYC. He specializes in content creation, branding, art direction, creative strategy, and making things cool.
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